Bike Worker

welcome to bike worker

2005-09-05T22:19:00.000-04:00

This site aims to help people get started commuting to work on a bicycle. Gas prices, ecological concerns, and health issues have encouraged a lot of people to consider ditching their cars and SUVs and riding their bikes to work. Do you fit the profile of a potential bike commuter? Click here to read the checklist. I have also written sections on getting started, bikes and commuter gear, safety and health issues, a FAQ, and an essay on why you have no excuses!

getting started

2005-09-05T21:44:00.000-04:00

So you're thinking about riding your bike to work. You've come to the right place! I created this site because I like commuting to work on a bicycle, and think more people should try it. I am not a bike fanatic -- that is, I am not one of those people who rides a $2,000 bike, weighs 135 pounds and wears colorful spandex and funny shoes every time I saddle up. In fact, I ride a pretty ordinary hybrid bike, am a bit overweight, and prefer old T-shirts and shorts to spandex.

I think it's a good idea to dispel a few myths about bicycle commuters.

Firstly, you don't have to be a physical fitness nut, or one of these superhuman, cycling freaks who gets up at 5 am every Saturday morning to do a 100-mile tour in the rain for fun. Ordinary people of practically any age or build can easily manage a five-mile commute, even if they haven't ridden in years. You can even be overweight (I'm speaking from experience here) although after a few months of regular commutes you will be pleasantly surprised to find your waistline decreasing and your legs getting very toned up!

Secondly, you don't need an expensive bicycle made of super-strong lightweight alloys, or one of those low-slung contraptions which some hard-core commuters use. Practically any reliable bike lying around your garage will do. In terms of extra gear, you'll need a helmet that fits (US$30-$70), a good bike lock (US$30), and panniers (US$50 - US$150), if you intend on carrying your work outfit or other stuff. Rear-mounted panniers also require some kind of rack, but most mountain bikes and hybrids come with these, or they can be purchased and installed at a local bike shop. I also recommend getting a few safety-related items: a bell (US$10) to let people know you are coming up behind them (bells are required in some places, such as Ontario) and rear and front flashing lights (US$10 apiece), if it gets dark early or you have to stay late at work.

Thirdly, choosing to bike to work doesn't mean you are obliged to do so every day. If the weather looks bad, it's too cold, or you just don't feel like riding because it's a Friday, then leave the bike at home and take the bus. I have a few rules of thumb that I use when considering whether to ride: if it's raining, or the roads are slick, or I can easily see my breath on a cold morning, I don't ride. The cold factor basically limits most of my bike commutes to between mid-April and mid-October, and the other factors limit my rides to about three or four days per week, on average.

If all this sounds reasonable to you, read on. Read the bike worker profile page to see if you meet some specific criteria which will help determine if commuting on a bike is right for you. I also have health and gear pages, as well as a page that addresses issues related to time -- i.e., how long does it take it get to work? And finally, a "no excuses!" page ... read this if you need a mental kick in the shorts to get started!

commuter profile: who should ride

2005-09-05T21:33:00.000-04:00

Do these apply to you?

You live less than 8 miles from work

You own a reliable bike

You have no health issues which would be triggered or exacerbated by regular bike rides

There is a relatively safe route between your home and office

There is someplace near your office where you can lock your bike

There is a place where you can change clothes

If you answered "yes" to all of the above, then you have the potential to be a regular bike commuter. But let me explain a few issues associated with these factors.
1. Length of commute - 8 miles is not a randomly chosen number. A commute of this distance will take most adults 45 minutes to one hour to complete. Beyond that, you're getting into a situation where the hassle of a regular bike commute may outweigh the benefits.

That being said, some die-hard commuters will gladly spend two hours undertaking a 20-mile journey to work, and will do it every day. Others in this situation may choose to attempt such a commute only occasionally.

2. A reliable bike - Using an old bike is OK, but it should be in good condition and not prone to breakdowns. That is, the brakes, cables, tires, and chain should be free of rust, excessive wear, etc.

3. Health issues - If you have bad knees, are at risk for heart attacks, have significant vision problems, or are suffering from some other ailment which would be exacerbated by bike commuting or cause an accident, then getting to work on a bike is not for you. If you are unsure if health issues will come into play, then consult your doctor first.

4. There is a relatively safe route - If the route you intend to take requires traveling a major or minor highway, or extremely busy street with no shoulder or bike lane, then get a good local map and scout out some alternate routes.

If there is nothing else available (a sad reality for many people who work in office parks only accessible from major roads) then forget about it. It is simply not worth entering into battle with cars in a dangerous traffic situation, because you will lose. Riding a bike on certain roads, such as major highways, is also illegal in many places.

There is also a time component to consider. Riding in the dark greatly increases your chance of having an accident. Even if you have a standard nine-to-five job, darkness will come into play in certain areas at certain times of the year (particularly in northern climes, where the sun goes down early in the fall and winter). As this period coincides with the arrival of cold and snowy weather, many people (myself included) abandon the bike commute at this time.

5. There is a safe place to lock up your bike - At home, most people can lock their bike in a garage or bring it into their apartment. At work, you'll need to find a place to secure your bike. Some offices have indoor or outdoor racks for bikes. Others bring their bikes into their office. As a last resort, you can lock your bike to a parking meter.

If you do lock your bike in an outdoor area, be sure to take with you any items that can be easily removed from the bike - helmet, pump, seats, etc. I've found that people will steal almost anything that's not locked down - I've even lost a ratty water bottle that somebody thought was worth taking.

Another sad phenomenon that occurs is someone will get their seat or helmet ripped off, and the victim will just take someone else's so they can get home. Don't get caught out!

6. There is a place where you can get changed - not everyone needs to get out of their bike clothing, but if you have to change into a uniform or work outfit, then you'll want a private place where you can take off your sweaty bike clothes and put on your work clothes. A lot of newer office buildings have showers and changing rooms attached to the ground-level bathrooms, but if this is not the case for you, use a restroom stall or an office with a door to get changed.

time factors

2005-09-05T21:18:00.000-04:00

Besides the time you are actually on the bicycle, you should factor in preparation time and changing time as part of the commute.

It takes me about five to ten extra minutes in the morning to get ready for the commute. This includes packing my work clothes into the panniers, refilling my water bottle, unlocking the bike, adjusting my helmet, etc.

On the other end, I usually take about 10-15 minutes to lock up my bike, shower, get changed, comb my hair, etc. Some people will take longer, while others won't bother with the shower, so these times may be different for you.

Comparing a bike commute with a "normal" commute

It amazes me that people who fit the profile of a potential bike commuter don't even try. Part of the reason is fear of the unknown, but many people assume riding five miles on a bike will take longer than five miles on a bus, train or car.

While motor vehicles of course go faster than a bike, the speed advantage is often negated by rush hour traffic jams, searches for parking spaces, or sub-commutes to the nearest train or subway station. And that's not even factoring in additional costs such as parking, bus or train fare, gasoline, etc.

Case in point: my bike commute takes about 55 minutes each way - 35 minutes of riding the 6.5 mile route, plus another 20 or so of prep and changing time. That's not much longer than doing it the "normal" way - that is, driving 10 minutes to a parking lot in near a busy square, waiting 5-10 minutes for a bus, and then spending 20-30 minutes on the bus into town, depending on the traffic.

Of course, I could reduce the commute to 20-30 minutes total by taking my car the whole way in, but that would require me purchasing a space in a parking garage - $1,500/year in the building I work in, or $500/year in a lot a 20-minute walk away.

health benefits/safety issues

2005-09-05T10:35:00.000-04:00

death at 15 mph

tips for dealing with motor vehicles

other safety tips

There's no doubt that regular bike commutes are good for your health. Improved muscle tone and the loss of a few pounds will be the most apparent benefits. After regular biking for about a month, you'll also notice your speed and pedaling strength will greatly improve. I am sure there are other cardiovascular benefits as well.

In terms of health problems associated with bike commuters, I have read reports that some men experience sexual dysfunction. The experts think its because of the way the seat presses on a nerves in your groin. Seat manufacturers have taken notice, and now produce gel-filled seats, or seats with split designs that relieve pressure in this area.

death at 15 mph

Another health/safety issue you should keep in mind is a bicyclist traveling 15 miles per hour will be far more likely to experience injury in an accident than someone traveling the same speed in a car. For this reason, wearing a helmet, having functioning brakes, and obeying traffic laws are absolutely essential.

Unbelievably, some cyclists who really should know better don't get it. a small minority of hard-core touring bicyclists insist on the "freedom" of riding without a helmet, and in urban areas you'll find a few younger riders and couriers riding stripped-down bikes with no brakes or gears - they claim they have more control over their bikes and don't need brakes.

dealing with cars

But the most common safety violations - which can suddenly and unexpectedly impact your health - are the incorrect assumptions that bicyclists have more rights on the road ("I have the right of way because I'm smaller!"), or it's OK to flout traffic laws ("red lights are only for motor vehicles"), or bikes can behave like cars in certain situations ("It's OK for me to cut across three lanes of traffic to make a left turn").

While it may be true that a car driver is more likely to be the loser in a court case involving a bicyclist, the cost of proving this point - injury or death - simply isn't worth it. Keep these facts in mind when dealing with cars, busses and trucks:

Regardless of what the law says, you cannot physically win a game of chicken with a car. At the very least you will be shaken and scraped up, and at the very most, you will die. The car driver will likely walk away from the accident with no physical injuries, and only slight damage to the car.

Don't assume that cars or trucks will pay attention to your safety, particularly on busy or fast roads.

Busses make frequent stops. In some areas they run on electricity, which means you can't hear them coming up behind you.

Give cars the space they need on fast roads. If there is no space or shoulder, you probably shouldn't be on that road.

Use clear hand signals (not the finger!) to let drivers know what you want to do.

Pay attention to their signals

Pay attention to their lack of signals. Motorists slowing down may be getting ready to turn right, but may not use their signals. Furthermore, idiots who hold cell phones while driving can't use their indicators.

other safety tips

Rain
Water is bad for cyclists. It slickens the roads, rusts moving parts, and reduces visibility for both you and motorists. Riding in a lightning storm can be extremely dangerous. One of my basic rules of thumbs about cycling in the rain is, don't. If you can't avoid it (weatherman screws up, or it's a sudden storm) try to get home/to the office before it gets really wet, or in the case of lightning storms, wait under an awning or tree until it passes.

Sun
Stay hydrated! You will need at least a bottle of water over the course of an hour-long ride. If you are in a really hot place, plan on bringing an extra bottle for the commute, or stop along the way to get some juice or electrolyte drink.

Hot weather itself does not bother me. The summers can get very hot and humid, but in general the early mornings and late afternoons (the times when I commute) are a few degrees cooler than the height of the day, and the wind generated by speed also helps me stay cool. I have also not gotten sunburned while commuting, thanks to the low angle of the sun and the many trees which line the route.

However, heat may be a factor for you. If you are more sensitive to heat, or live in an exceptionally hot place, get advice from other commuters about this issue and pay attention to official heat warnings.

One other heat issue I have come across is the phenomenon of exploding tires. When I was traveling in a desert area abroad, local people warned me not to park my bike in the direct sun, or leave it standing on the hot pavement for extended periods. This isn't a problem where I live, but people in the southwest might want to keep this in mind.

Bells
Buying a bell is the best $10 investment you can make. Sure, it's hokey, but a couple clear rings are probably the most effective (and most polite) way of letting people know you are coming up behind them. Adult pedestrians usually move to the side of the path when they hear a bell, while kids will freeze and look around. Dogs don't always pay attention, but at least their owners will call them or try to grab their collars as you pass. Joggers may not hear you, because half of the time they are plugged into an iPod, but at least most of them know to stay to one side of the path. Slower bicyclists usually know to get to the right of the path. Cars won't hear you unless the window is rolled down.

The alternative to using a bell is saying (or shouting) "passing on your left" but that can get mighty tiring in the course of a morning commute.

Sidewalks
Sidewalks are meant for walkers, not riders. Sometimes bike commuters will be forced to ride on the sidewalk owing to the design of a roadway or intersection, or some other reason, but keep in mind that most pedestrians aren't expecting you to be speeding down their space. Some of the bad bike/pedestrian accidents reported in the papers are caused by bicyclists riding on the sidewalk, and striking someone strolling out of a doorway. Don't be one of them!

Parked cars
Drivers opening their doors into the path of a bicyclist cause a lot of accidents, many of them fatal. Besides the danger of striking the car door and flipping over the handlebars, there is also the risk of swerving to avoid the car door, and being hit by another motor vehicle. Remember that all the special bike lanes and ordinances in the world won't save you from some idiot who opens his door without looking.

SUVs
Gas-guzzling road hogs, unsafe monsters, stupid urban vehicles - call them what you will, SUVs are unfortunately here to stay. They persist, even though 95% of the urbanites and suburbanites who own SUVs don't know how to drive them, and don't even need them to travel to the local mall.

Their increased presence only makes the bike safety situation worse. I've observed that SUV drivers tend to be more arrogant about sharing the road with bicyclists. SUVs are wide, so they don't leave as much space in the lane, and SUV drivers are often unaware that they are forcing you into the curb. When they park on the street, a combination of extra vehicle width and poor parking skills usually means they jut out into the road an extra foot or two. And if you get hit by one, your chances of death or serious injury are much greater than being hit by an ordinary car.

you don't have an excuse!

2005-09-05T10:31:00.000-04:00

It's 8:30 on an early fall morning. You're powering down the bike path that parallels a nearby river and two-lane highway, and you feel great. Fresh air fills your lungs. Sunlight dapples through the leaves overhead, and a few twigs cover the path. The birds are even singing.

You're in no hurry - you have 30 minutes to get to work and change into your clothes - so you slow down a notch to enjoy the scenery. Through the trees on your left you can see two people in a canoe paddling on the sparkling river, and hear the honking of a few Canada geese disturbed by their passage. Across the river, a few of the sugar maples are starting to turn color on the fringes. Yes, it's a beautiful morning, and a perfect day to be riding to work.

Not everyone is in the same frame of mind, though. To your right, several hundred cars are experiencing a small eastbound traffic jam, backed up at a traffic light at the end of the two-lane highway. Most of the cars are occupied by a single driver. They grip the steering wheels tightly, squinting into the morning sun, trying to see the end of the jam.

On the far side of the road, up a steep embankment, a similar scene is playing out on the four eastbound lanes of the interstate, but on a much larger scale. Tens of thousands of drivers are stuck in a traffic jam more than ten miles long. At this rate, they won't be at their desks until 9:30 or 10 in the morning. Nothing unusual there - it's like this almost every weekday morning. Some of the drivers have been dealing with rush-hour traffic jams on the interstate for decades.

Yet it doesn't have to be this way. While most of these drivers live too far away to commute by bike, need their car for their jobs, or have to pick up children or spouses later in the day, a sizable minority fit the profile of potential bicycle commuters. For them, there is no real excuse why they can't try commuting by bike.

This is particularly true of the many thousands of people who live and work within a half-mile of the bike paths. These paved routes are intended for bikers, pedestrians and other non-motorized recreational traffic, and stretch from the suburbs right into downtown. They offer a safe, scenic and quick route into town, yet they are chronically underused by bicycle commuters.

Why? I suspect unfamiliarity with this mode of transport, myths about bicycle commuters, and of course American car culture.

It's a shame, really. Many towns and cities in North America have constructed bike paths, or designated bike lanes on major roads, yet I suspect they are not used by many bicycle commuters.

You have to go to places like the Netherlands or China to see widespread use of bicycles for transportation, and in the latter case, they are actually reducing space for bicycles to make way for cars!

gear

2005-09-05T08:02:00.000-04:00

Helmet

Bell

Phone

Panniers

Lock

Water Bottle

Lights

Rain Gear

Pump

Toolkits

Pedal Grips

Clothing

Shoes

When you go to the bike store to outfit your bike for your first commute, don't be tempted by all of the shiny gear on display. Most of it is overpriced crap, dictated by glossy bike magazines, fashion-concious riders, and a misguided sense of practicality. Colorful spandex is to cyclists what black leather is to Harley riders. People think it's necessary, yet it's really all about the image.

$30 gel gloves? Please. If you really need gloves, get an old pair from the closet and cut off the fingers at the middle joint.

$60 spandex pants? Uh-huh. For top riders it may increase aerodynamic efficiency by a few percent, but for the average joe it will serve no practical purpose. Get a pair of ordinary shorts, which besides costing 1/3 the price, will have actual pockets.

I could go on about this, but I think it's more important to discuss what gear you will actually need to get started with bicycle commuting.

Helmet
If your helmet is more than 10 years old or cracked, or doesn't fit anymore, throw it out. Decent new ones start at $30, although many others see this as too cheap, considering what it is protecting. How did that old ad go, from the late 80s? "Is your head only worth $10?" (Browse Bike Helmets)

Bell
this is a very practical safety item that can help you avoid an accident with pedestrians, other cyclists, and even cars. They cost $10 or so.

Mobile phone
Next to the helmet, the bell, and possibly the lock, this is the one thing I would consider essential to any bike commuter. In case of a problem or accident, you can use it to summon the police, call your spouse for a ride, tell your boss you'll be late, or contact the nearest bike shop. Mobile phones have saved my bacon twice following mechanical problems, once on a long-distance ride in a rural area, and once during a commute. In the first instance I was able to call home for a ride, and in the second, I was able to tell my wife I'd be really late. (Browse Mobile Phones)

Panniers
If you don't have much to carry, you can use a bookbag or sling something across your back, but this runs the risk of making the place where the bag meets your back really sweaty. Instead, I recommend a set of panniers, and a frame to mount it on (this is standard on many bikes, or can be added on for a minor fee). My snap-on, rear-mounted panniers carry my work outfit, shoes, lunch, parka, and towel. The Vaude model I have also has a day-glo rain cover, which has come in handy a few times. Additional protection can be had by placing things like wet towels and shoes in plastic bags. (Browse Panniers)

Lock
Kryptonite is the standard. If you have an old Kryptonite, replace it -- a few years back there was a widely-publicized trick that allowed people to open the lock with a plastic pen. If you want to secure the other wheel without removing it, you can by a high-strength extension cable that loops through the U section of the lock. (Browse Bike Locks)

Water bottle
Make sure you have a holder of some kind mounted on your frame, or at least bring a bottle in your bag. It's very important to stay hydrated, especially in the summer.

Lights
Bike stores sell high-intensity red flashers with a mounting clip for $10 or $15. Get one for the front and back. These are very important for safety after dark, because reflectors don't stand out on a busy night-time street.

Rain gear
If you intend to be an all-weather biker, you'll have to dish out some coin for this. Waterproof pants and a jacket will cost you, and you have to bring them along with you on cloudy days, or leave a set at the office. As I mentioned before, I don't ride in the rain, but if I do get caught out, I have a simple plastic parka and a cover for my panniers. I also bring an extra plastic bag to cover my seat with. The biggest problem I have in the rain is it either fogs up or beads up on my glasses - anyone know a solution for this?

Pump
I carry a cheap plastic pump with me, but don't think it's necessary. I used it once with a slow leak, but as is often the case, slow leaks have a way of turning into fast leaks, in which case a pump won't help.

Tooklits
I have one of those jackknife doohickeys with the different-sized hex tools, which is fine for adjusting or removing brakes, or rethreading the gearshift cable. They cost like $15, and it's probably a good investment.

I know others bring along leak repair kits, but I wouldn't bother - not only do I not know how to do this on my own, but I suspect that if I did it would take me more time to fix than it would take me to walk to the nearest bike shop, or have someone pick me up in their car and drive it over.

That's important to remember - even if you have a total breakdown during your commute, you don't have to deal with the problem immediately. You can always have someone pick you up, or you can walk the bike to the nearest shop, or you can just lock up the bike and pick it up later.

If you are really stranded on a commute of less than 10 miles, it will probably take you no more than 2 hours to walk to your home or office, whichever is closest (I'm speaking from experience, here!)

Pedal grips
Is that what you call them? These are the strap-like things that attach to your pedals and prevent your shoes from slipping off. They also help you maintain a steady clip, and there are techniques you can use to really improve the power delivered to your wheels.

Clothing
Pay no attention to what the slicksters at the bike store will tell you. An old pair of shorts and T-shirt will do fine for the commute.

When the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (about 13 degrees Celsius) you will probably want to wear sweatpants and a windbreaker.

Shoes
Some people will spend way too much for special biking shoes, and I'm afraid they're being taken for a ride. An ordinary pair of tennis sneakers will suffice, or even low-top walking shoes with a slim profile. I have a beat-up yet wicked comfortable pair of hiking shoes that fit in my pedal grips just fine.

bikes

2005-09-05T07:59:00.001-04:00

So you want to pedal to work. What kind of bike do you need?

Any reliable bicycle will do. As long as everything is in good working order and you feel comfortable on the bike, you are fine. If you find an old bike in your garage that may be suitable, take it down to the bike shop for a tune-up ($50 or so), and ask them to evaluate it for regular commuting. They may suggest you replace worn wheels and rusty chains, things of that nature.

If you have to buy a bike, there are three or four kinds of bikes sold to adults in most North American shops: Mountain bikes, touring bikes, hybrids, and what I call "granny bikes."

Mountain bikes
If you are only using the bike for commuting, forget about a mountain bike. Mountain bikes have fortified frames, and fat, knobby tires designed for rough trails and off-road riding. In fact, on paved roads mountain bikes will be counterproductive, because their weight and the extra friction from the fat tires will slow you down.

Of course, some don't really care about this -- they get mountain bikes to project the image that they dabble in off-road activities, or are a little on the wild side -- kinda like your average city/suburban SUV driver.

Still, they are tough, and in certain commuting situations -- through parks, potholes, or curb-jumping -- they're your best bet.

Touring bikes
These are the speediest option, thanks to their light frames and thin tires. Up until the mid-80s they were commonly known as "ten-speeds," but most newer models have 24 or more speeds.

If your commute takes you on long stretches of road without any interruptions, and you can build up a lot of speed, you may want to get a touring bike.

However, if you are driving through city streets and have to deal with red lights and frequent intersections, a touring bike is probably not the right choice.

Touring bikes are also not meant for mild off-road wear (such as detouring on a dirt path) or jumping curbs, which can damage the bike.

I have also found them to be slip-prone when encountering sand on pavement, which is a common situation in the spring in northern climes.

Hybrids
Hybrids are like mountain bikes with narrower tires and lighter frames. I think they're perfect for commuting, and even for semi-long tours (I've managed a 100-plus-mile ride on mine). They're rugged enough for mild off-road detours, and for traversing curbs, potholes and roots, yet can build up a fair rate of speed on the straightaways.

Granny bikes
I don't know if this type of bike has an official name, but this is what I call them.

This type of bike is the descendent of the solid model you might have seen an elderly grammar school teacher riding in the 1950s. They have curved handlebars, wide seats, a simple three- to ten-gear transmission, and mud guards. A few even come equipped with lights and baskets. Recent models tend to be black and ruggedized a bit, with wider tires and stronger frames, kind of like a hybrid lite.

They are subtly ubiquitous in university areas, and even overseas. They are also entirely practical and maybe even right for you if your commute is a short one, or you don't need to go that fast.

frequently asked questions

2005-09-05T07:52:00.000-04:00

I don't have a place to shower at work. What can I do to stay clean after a sweaty ride on a summer day?

Where should I keep my stuff? There are no locker rooms where I work.

What kind of bike should I get?

I have to wear a suit to work, but it won't fit into my panniers, and I don't want to fold it.

I don't have a place to shower at work. What can I do to stay clean after a sweaty ride on a summer day?

Firstly, if you leave in the early morning to go to work, chances are the temperature won't be that high, and sweat will be limited to your scalp, back and patches of your upper torso.

I am fortunate in that my office building has shower facilities. I also always shower and shave at home, before leaving for work, then take another quick shower when I arrive to wash away the sweat and cool down.

If you don't have a shower in your building, and there is no public facility nearby (such as the Y, a gym, etc.), you can try brining baby wipes or "moist towlette" products and wiping away the sweat.

You can also try what some backpackers call "train showers": Fill a basin in the bathroom with water, and repeatedly douse your head and upper body with water, then apply soap and shampoo, then refill the basin and rinse off. It's messy but it does the job, kind of.

Where should I keep my stuff? There are no locker rooms where I work.

I'd say treat your panniers as you would a purse or bookbag, and hide it somewhere at work - under a desk, in a closet, etc. (Browse Panniers)

If you worry about your stuff being stolen, leave the top open - the sight of sweaty biking clothes should be enough to keep all but the most desperate of thieves at bay.

What kind of bike should I get?

There are three or four kinds of bikes sold to adults in most North American shops: Mountain bikes, touring bikes, hybrids, and what I call "granny bikes."

Mountain bikes
If you are only using the bike for commuting, forget about a mountain bike. Mountain bikes have fortified frames, and fat, knobby tires designed for rough trails and off-road riding. In fact, on paved roads mountain bikes will be counterproductive, because their weight and the extra friction from the fat tires will slow you down.

Of course, some don't really care about this -- they get mountain bikes to project the image that they dabble in off-road activities, or are a little on the wild side -- kinda like your average city/suburban SUV driver.

However, they are good in commuting situations where curbs, potholes, or rough patches are common. (Browse Mountain Bikes)

Touring bikes
These are the speediest option, thanks to their light frames and thin tires. Up until the mid-80s they were commonly known as "ten-speeds," but most newer models have 24 or more speeds.

If your commute takes you on long stretches of road without any interruptions, and you can build up a lot of speed, you may want to get a touring bike.

However, if you are driving through city streets and have to deal with red lights and frequent intersections, a touring bike is probably not the right choice.

Touring bikes are also not meant for mild off-road wear (such as detouring on a dirt path) or jumping curbs, which can damage the bike.

I have also found them to be slip-prone when encountering sand on pavement, which is a common situation in the spring in northern climes.

Hybrids
This is like a mountain bike with narrower tires and a lighter frame. I think they're perfect for commuting, and even for semi-long tours (I've managed a 100-plus-mile ride on mine). They're rugged enough for mild off-road detours, and for traversing curbs, potholes and roots, yet can build up a fair rate of speed on the straightaways.

Granny bikes
I don't know if this type of bike has an official name, but this is what I call them.

This type of bike is the descendent of the solid model you might have seen an elderly grammar school teacher riding in the 1950s. They have curved handlebars, wide seats, a simple three- to ten-gear transmission, and mud guards. A few even come equipped with lights and baskets. Recent models tend to be black and ruggedized a bit, with wider tires and stronger frames, kind of like a hybrid lite.

They are subtly ubiquitous in university areas, and even overseas. They are also entirely practical and maybe even right for you if your commute is a short one, or you don't need to go that fast.

I have to wear a suit to work, but it won't fit into my panniers, and I don't want to fold it.

I would suggest leaving your suits at the office. If you have to wear a suit to work, chances are you have some kind of office or at least a closet you can use.

If this is not the case, or you need to bring them home to get cleaned, you can get panniers with an over-the-top attachment that allows for bigger items of clothing, such as suits or sportjackets.